Repairs and Upgrades

This page is now out of date and no longer maintained. I keep it here purely for reference purposes.

If you want more information about repairing laptops, or Linux on laptops try TuxMobil or Repair4Laptop.

I've been running my B2154 since 2001. It has been through 3rd world customs, used in Jungle camps, with every power supply known to mankind, on every continent and I even found time to do some work on it. The following are things I have done to upgrade and repair the unit. Please note any work you carry out on your own B2154 is at your own risk. Just because I got away with it doesn't mean that you will, if you feel at all unsure as to what your doing go and get it fixed by a pro. As I say throughout this site I am not an expert, and probably shouldn't be doing these upgrades and repairs anyway!

All the jobs listed here should be done with the mains disconnected and the battery removed. Do not re-install/ connect either until the case is completely closed and your work complete.

Upgrades

[Fig 1: The RAM Cover]

[Fig 2: The open cover]

The only thing I have done to upgrade my Laptop (in fact it may be the only thing you can do) is fit extra RAM. The B2154 can take a maximum of 192MB, it comes with 64 so all you need do is add another 128.

Fitting is simple, on the underside of the unit, just under the IR port, is a panel held on with only one screw (Fig 1). Under here is a slot that can take extra RAM (As seen in Fig 2). Just plug it in and away you go.

Of course it's not as simple as that, you need to find somewhere that still sells the correct chip. In the UK the chip was �250 approx, so in the end I waited until I was in Singapore on holiday and bought it then for $30.

Remember if you are up-grading and have told your Linux Kernel the size of your onboard RAM to correct LILO or whatever you boot with.

Repairs - Modem and Ethernet Socket Cover

[Fig 3: The Cover once fixed]

This can be seen as the panel, on the base of the unit, above the RAM cover in fig 1. This can crack and break near the modem and ethernet sockets, which do get a lot of use.

Repair is simple, just remove the holding screws, slide the cover out, and glue back on whatever snapped. Fig 3 shows the completed job.

Make sure when you do this repair that the unit is disconnected from the mains, and the battery has been removed. Also try not to loose any screws.

Replacement -Hard Disk Drive (HDD)

After 2 years the standard Hard Disk that came with my B2154 packed in. I replaced it with a 20GB off the shelf laptop Hard Disk, and it worked fine. I don't know what else to say about this, read my Power Socket repairs guide below to see how to remove & replace the HDD.

Repairs - Power Socket

[Fig 4: Screw locations]

[Fig 5: HDD Disconnected]

After I'd had the unit 18 months I started to notice that the power supply became intermittent. Over time it got gradually worse, and I had to push the plug and cable back to get it to stay on. After some swearing and playing around I discovered that the socket itself in the laptop was a faulty.

Now this is not a repair job for the timid (see the top of this page), it involves pretty much dismantling the entire laptop. Make sure you have plenty of time, room and patience before begining.

To begin with unplug the unit from the mains and remove the battery. Turn it over and remove all the screws on the base. Make a careful note of where each one belongs (see fig 4). Remove the HDD cover and the HDD itself. This will lift out easily, the cable can be disconnected with a small flatbladed screw-driver (see fig 5) as a lever (don't worry, it can be gently pushed back on with your finger). Remove the RAM cover to prevent damage, but not the RAM chip (if installed see fig 2).

[Fig 6: HDD Removed]

[Fig 7: Keyboard Open]

Turn over. Open out the screen and lay it as flat against the work surface as you can. The Keyboard is held in by 2 spring loaded clips to on the screen edge of the keys. The Keyboard will, once these have been pushed out of the way with a small lever, lift out (see fig 7). On the back are 2 ribbon connectors (see fig 8), VERY carefully prise the clip on the connector back, avoid removing them totally as it is very difficult to re-install them. Once these are undone far enough the two ribbons for the keyboard and mouse should come away. A pair of tweesers will help with this. Note: you may have to lift the top of the case slightly to completely remove the ribbons, do so and avoid damaging them.

[Fig 8: Keyboard Connectors]

With the screen as far back as it will go gently lever the last 3 clips, which cover the hinges and video cable, off. You may have to move the screen forward and back several times to do this, but it should be fully back to allow you to lift off the clips, and so the top cover to the case (see fig 9). Check to make sure that the mouse is disconnected.

[Fig 9: Top cover removed]

You will now see the whole of a sheet of metal, which was behind the keyboard and covers much of the machines innards. This is in part a heat-sink for the processor. The screws fastening it should be removed BUT NOT the ones which connect plastic strips along the base of the screen. These can be left in place, and are difficult to install anyway. Lift the metal plate slightly up and back so it can clear the screen. On the left (over the USB slots) it is held in place with a plastic hinge, do not damage this, just use it as a hinge to swing the plate away from the unit (see fig 10). The processor and plate underside will be covered in a thermal paste, do not wipe off (although if you do most electronics stores will sell this).

[Fig 10: Heat sink]

You should now be able to get to the power connector (see fig 11). Trailing from the back will be a small set of white wires, on the end of which is a very small plug. Unplug this using a small lever and the socket, back PCB and cable will come away (see fig 12).

The contacts on the base will most likely be damaged, fully de-solder and then re-solder them all, using an iron of suitable wattage with a tinned bit at the correct temperature (i.e. no little points appearing as you lift the iron away). There is no danger of damage due to heat (unless you are using too high a wattage/ gas setting) but as space is limited and this is an expensive laptop your work should be top notch.

[Fig 11: Power Plug]

[Fig 12: Removed Power Socket]

To prevent further damage to the socket you can fix it in place with a good quality adhesive, but this is optional.

Component assembly is the reverse of removal, but make sure that your fixed power connector is seated correcly in the plastic slots provided within the case, and any adhesive has properly set.

Flickering Screen

After 4 and a bit years I started to have problems with the screen when the computer was first switched on, it would flicker for a short time, and then work properly. Gradualy the amount of time it flickered for grew, until it could be up to 1 hour. I checked all the contacts for the screen, but eventually realised that it was the screen itself. Quite simply it was worn out and getting old.

The only way to fix this is to buy a new screen. At �300 for this, and �200 for a new battery (mine was also worn out - and that's �200 for the correct LiIon cells from RS components.) I decided to wait for a bit and get a new laptop. Of course I needed a way to use my laptop in the meantime.

The trick to stopping the flickering quickly is to get the system fully logged in (that is get as far as the desktop), for whatever reason it helps (I'm guess it increases the amount of current flowing to the screen, but to be honest I don't quite know). Under Linux the easiest way to do this is always suspend the system. As long as you can remember whatever passwords you need to get to the desktop you will just have to wait for a few moments whilst the screen kicks in (about 20secs). Of course eventually this will fail, and you will be left using an external monitor.

For those of you using Windows XP see my Windows page.